Description
The Seamaster 165.002 debuted in the early 1960s as part of Omega’s effort to deliver accessible yet durable automatic dress watches. Typically seen with light-colored dials, the black gilt variant is an uncommon sight — and one whose authenticity is frequently debated among collectors. Indeed, most Seamaster 165.002s with black dials that circulate today are believed to be later service replacements or refinished aftermarket examples. Yet some outliers have emerged: period-correct specimens with convincing gilt printing, applied gold indices, and untouched lume, suggesting a handful of factory-original black dials may have been produced or specially ordered.
Housed in a 34 mm gold-plated stainless steel case, the watch features a minimalist case design with slender lugs and a signed Omega crown. Beneath the plexiglass crystal, the dial presents a crisp gold-on-black layout: elongated stick indices, a printed minute track, and a balanced no-date dial. Baton-style hands reinforce the formal tone, while the automatic caliber 552 powers the watch with quiet precision.
On the wrist, the black gilt dial lends a dramatic warmth, pairing effortlessly with both formal attire and casual elegance. The contrast between the gold case and the dark dial feels intentional and sharp — a design choice that elevates this Seamaster beyond the ordinary. It is no surprise that this rare configuration has begun to garner attention among connoisseurs who value both rarity and subtlety.
Collectors should proceed with discernment, however: verifying dial originality is key. The combination of correct font printing, lume aging, and Omega’s production codes can help distinguish factory originals from later reproductions. When verified like this one, an authentic black gilt dial example of the 166.002 becomes more than just a dress watch — it becomes a conversation piece steeped in nuance and vintage charm.
What we love:
- Uncommon dial variation
- Beautifully sized case
What you should know:
- Unless otherwise stated, it is common for vintage watches to not come with box and papers. In the rare example that a watch does come with box and papers it will be mentioned in the description. All purchases come with a bespoke black wooden watch box and warranty card.
- Crown has been replaced for an original Omega crown in a recent service.
